Scientists have found that human-made noise pollution causes robins living in rural areas to become more physically aggressive (file photo) However, with other robins they are very territorial and will chase away any other intruding birds from their patch. When Eda, now nude, bangs a drum and starts chanting, I and the other sweat-drenched members of my group join in. At first, too, I arch an eyebrow as Eda Veeroja, the earthy priestess of the place, explains the ancient magic of the sauna — how it puts you in touch with the ghosts of your ancestors, and so on.

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